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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.